Bali & the Gili Islands Travel Guide

Welcome to Part 2 of my Bali Travel Guide. Part 1 was all about Ubud, which is where Farmboy and I landed from Korea and spent the beginning and end of our trip in July 2014. This part of the Bali travel guide is all about the Gili Islands.  We spent the middle of our trip, a total of 5 nights on these magical islands. 

The Gili Islands are made up of of 3 small islands (Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno & Gili Air) on the East coast of Bali. Gili Trawangan is the biggest of the three and home to the majority of restaurants and resorts. Gili Meno & Gili Air are the two smallest islands, with Air being the most remote. If coming from Bali mainland you will arrive by fast boat (a terrifying 1.5 hour ride...more on that to come later in this blog post) but you will arrive in one piece on Gili T (Trawangan). From there you can charter a private boat to Gili Meno or Air (usually for about $15) or you can take the public boat which only goes across to the smaller islands a few times a day. Prices for the public boat were about $3 pp. All of the Gili Islands are walkable, and there are no motorised vehicles allowed on them and everyone gets around by walking or using either bicycles or horse/donkey drawn carts called Cidomos. 

We loved our stay on the Gili Islands, and would have spent longer there had we known just how beautiful it would be. Here are a few photographs from Gili Meno where we spent most of our time.

**Keep in mind that July/August is peak season for Bali, and things start getting booked up as early as January. If a hotel has accommodation try to secure your booking with a deposit so you don't loose out while deciding where you want to travel to. Another very beautiful place to visit in Bali is Amed, a quiet coastal town in the North. If things are all booked up on the GIli Islands for your dates try looking at places in Amed. It seems to still be very untouched as most people head down South to Kuta, and the Gili Islands are starting to get more popular now too.

Getting to the Gili Islands

The GIli Islands are on the East Coast of Bali, and the easiest way to get there is by fast boat leaving either from Bali or from Lombok. A lot of people make the journey to the gIli Islands from Ubud. Because of this, many boat companies offer packages that will pick you up from your hotel in Ubud and drop you off there again if you book a return ticket. There are a number of online sites which you can book through before hand, but from the numerous scams and horror stories we had read, we decided to organise our boat tickets with our host, Dewa, when we arrived in Ubud. Dewa was able to get us tickets for $75 pp return (which included pick up at our accommodation in Ubud and transport to the port where the fast boat leaves from).

You will probably be picked up in a mini van to make the +-2hour ride from Ubud to Padang Bai where you will board the fast boat to the islands. Once you get to Padang Bai you will then need to queue up to collect your ticket (most people arrive with an email confirmation or tour group) and then you stand on the docks and wait for your boat. It's quite chaotic but definitely an interesting experience waiting for your boat. There are lots and lots of boat companies and boats going at the same time so make sure to keep your eyes peeled so you get on the right boat!

The prices vary with different companies, some also offer discounts for more than 1 ticket booked together. I would suggest booking your tickets for the fast boast as soon as you arrive in Bali rather than before your arrive, as the locals generally are able to secure better deals and will help you get onto a safe boat. Some of the tour companies we had looked at were Perama Tour & Marina Srikandi. It was very overwhelming as there are A LOT of companies that offer transport to the Gili Islands, and there are just as many people online telling stories about how they were scammed or how scary the ride there is. To be honest, the ride itself was pretty terrifying, but our boat was airconditioned and that helped ease the sea sickness a bit. Just be prepared that the trip there and back won't a walk in the park, and you'll be fine. Better to be prepared for a hard trip and then have it be easy that the other way around! It's only an hour and a half though and will just be a memory once you arrive in paradise. 

Where to Stay on Gili Trawangan

There are loads and loads of places to stay on Gili T, the biggest of the three islands. This is also where the majority of restaurants and shops are. The island is still small enough to walk around in an afternoon, especially if you want to get away from the crowds of people who frequent the most popular stretch of beach, 'Good Heart'. 

We spent our last two nights after Gili Meno on Gili T at Scalleywags Resort. It was wonderful. The rooms were clean, comfortable and so luxurious compared to our rustic beach hut on Meno. Scalleywags is definitely on the higher end of the scale in terms of resorts but it was worth every cent.

They also have an amazing seafood and meat buffet every evening where we stuffed our faces silly with delicious food. Scalleywags has a number of locations in Bali and offer lots of great deals. We paid $150 per night for a double room which included breakfast & all taxes. And they have a wonderful pool for guests which you can lounge around while ordering great food and drinks.

**Bear in mind Bali has Tax and Service charges which amount to 21% on top of most hotel accommodation and food and beverage bills (this consist of a 10% service charge and 11% Government Tax). This is terribly annoying and we were often mislead by the prices of things as they were quoted WITHOUT the tax. Just keep this in mind when it comes to paying and always ask before hand if accommodation quotes include this tax or not.

Where to Stay in Gili Meno

We spent 3 wonderful nights at Sunset Gecko in a wooden bungalow on a very quiet stretch of beach on Gili Meno. There is a very fancy hotel that has been built next door which made me feel rather envious once we realised we were staying in the wooden shack next door, but the price of Sunset Gecko was great and within our budget. We ate at the fancy restaurant next door a few times and enjoyed a couple of cocktails there too. Staying at SunsetGheck meant we had the best of both worlds. And the outdoor showers and toilet were much better than I had anticipated.

Sunset Gecko has varying rooms, but at the time of booking we were only able to get space in their Big Beach Hut which is three stories and has private rooms on each level. We stayed on the top floor in a large room with two double beds. They have a few private beach cottages slightly closer to water and a few A-frame bungalows too. It's rustic, but clean and we just what we were after. Don't expect anything fancy, often times they were out of stock of several items on the menu (how do you run out of tea?!) but we loved our stay here and would highly recommend it to anyone looking for an authentic & relaxing beach stay. Just make sure to pack a sleeping bag liner/sheet if you are a little panicky about beds like I am. I had read reviews of bed bugs at Sunset Gecko and so was unable to relax at night. We didn't have any problems with bed bugs  though but because I had read about them I was unable to sleep peacefully in fear of waking up with my skin crawling. Silly me! And the sleeping bag liners I had ordered online for our were out of stock so we just went ahead without them. I was probably over acting but if bed bugs are something you just can't handle then make sure to pack a sheet/sleeping bag liner just in case.

The beach in front of Sunset Gecko was also where we swam with turtles and had the best snorkelling of our entire Bali trip! We spent every day on the beach pagoda's sipping fruit juice and watching the world go by. It was bliss.

The booking process seemed a little odd as you have to pay a deposit through a rather strange payment channel but it was all secure and my booking & payment was handled well. They also responded well to email (i had to change our booking slightly and they were very accommodating).

Here is a video that Farmboy put together of our time in Bali, with lots of footage of the Gili Islands:

Some things I learnt from this trip:

• Even when compiling an extensive budget, have an international credit card on hand for emergencies. We forgot to include various elements in our budget (lunch & the smaller transport costs) and had to use my credit card a few times. 
• Budget for souvenirs. Before a trip I always tell myself that I won't buy anything cliche (like floaty yoga pants and rugs) and without fail I have found something special on our travels in each country that I have wanted to buy. In Bali we bought a beautiful handwoven rug in soft pastel shades that has prize position on our living room. It was worth ever cent!
• Read travel reviews with a pinch of salt. I really had heard terrible things about Sunset Gecko and was prepared for an absolute nightmare. It ended up being the highlight of our stay (and no, there were no bed bugs).
• Try to pay for things before you arrive instead of having to have cash on hand (especially for accommodation).
• Always pack a rash vest (swimming top) if you plan on snorkelling anywhere. Farmboy and I each have a lycra swimming top we bought online (through Gmarket for +-$18) two years ago and they have saved our skin too many times to count. It's just not worth getting sun burnt on your first day in the water.

Useful Travel Info:

• Bali has a visa on arrival for most countries (including South Africa, UK, USA, New Zealand, Australia) which costs $35 and is valid for 30 days. You get this at the airport when you arrive in Bali.
• Be aware of the departure tax which needs to be paid in cash when you leave the airport (I have read that as of Feb 2015 this departure tax is now included in your flight price but I'm not 100% so make sure to research thoroughly before hand).
• Remember Bali imposes a 21% tax & service charge on most goods/services/facilities and this is not included in your bill.

I hope you found this travel guide useful! Please leave me a comment below if you have any questions.

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Jindo Island Sea Parting Festival

Once a year in Korea, during the Spring and as a result of tidal activity (you're going to have to ask the physicists? botanists? scientists?) the sea parts for nearly 3 kilometres and an almost 40 meter wide road of ocean floor opens up between Jindo Island and Modo Island. This 'Miracle Sea Road' as it is called here in Korea, attracts people from all over to the world to witness the literal parting of the seas. This year the seas parted 3 times over one weekend and we had planned to be there for the first parting at 5h30 in the morning.

I say planned because that was our intention, however as someone set their alarm for 3am and not 2am (I'm not mentioning any names here lol) and we live 2.5 hours away, even driving at break neck speed and getting everyone up and out the door in 15 minutes, we still managed to miss the spectacular Miracle Road by a full half an hour. We still made it in time for the sunrise and even had enough time to stand on a patch of mud and pose in front of Modo Island before the tide came in, so all was not lost. We may not have any photographs in thigh high red and yellow gum boots but there's always next year for that.

Jindo Island is also the home of the famous Korean Jindo dog. Our little #ShadowTheJindo, being a Jindo (or at least a mix of Jindo and something else we can't pin down) was of course brought along on this trip to meet his brothers and sisters and pay homage to his roots. Shadow is a Black & Tan Jindo, one of the rarest (or in Korea, the most undesirable of coat colours) with white and brown being by far the most popular. The Jindo Sea Parting Festival offers a number of Jindo Dog Shows over the weekend and the one we watched was quite enjoyable. Jindo's are not known for being show performers, rather known for their very wilful nature and so it was quite funny to watch the dogs stubbornly refusing to listen to their handlers instructions to paint and take items to and from a refrigerator, unless it suited them. Yes, this quite sums up our Shadow. 

As with all Korean festivals there were loads of food stalls and lots to see and do. We were there from 6am until early afternoon, managing a few naps on the beach in between trips to the food stalls. Also, if it takes your fancy, you can pick and gather any and all bits of sea life you find along your walk through the sea. This isn't exactly environmentally friendly, but if you do want some fresh sea snails in your ramen soup then by all means go ahead, everyone else will be doing it. 

Jindo is an island just off Mokpo on the South West Coast. There are signs posted all along the way once you get to Jindo (if you are driving).

If you are taking a bus here are some directions from the Jindo Bus Terminal:

From Jindo Bus Terminal, take the Gagye-Hoedong (가계, 회동) or Songgun-Hoedong (송군, 회동) bus 
-Get off at Hoedong (회동).
-Go 40m along the sea to reach the festival venue.

There are two areas to the festival, the one with all the food stalls that is right by the main parking lot. And then the other section that hosts a lot of the shows and has the main stage is near the actual sea parting. To get to that section you will be asked to pay a few (it was W5 000 and included vouchers of that value to use to purchase food at drinks at some of the stalls).

Have you ever been to to the Jindo Sea Parting Festival before? Did you enjoy the experience? I'd love to hear from you in the comments below.

South West Coast Beaches in South Korea

A few weekends ago Farmboy, #ShadowTheJindo and I road tripped down to the South West coast of Korea in celebration of the first warm day the year. The beaches here in Korea are a little different from what you typically see in the rest of South East Asia (click here to see a little more of Wido Island which we visited this time last year, also here in Korea). Even though it was far from tropical, it was a great day out and our pup had a ball chasing my scarf.

This beach was located on the coast between Gochang and Yeongwang.

Have you visited any beautiful beaches here in Korea? Please drop me a comment below, I'm always on the look out for new places to explore.

Dog Park in Jeonju, South Korea

Having a dog here in Korea means that we have had to sniff out all the local dog friendly places to spend afternoons and weekends at. We were surprised to find an awesome Dog Cafe in Gunsan (click here to read more) that allows you to bring your dog to play with the other pups, and so were even happier to find out about this dog park in Jeonju. 

This park is located in the Southern part of Jeonju, above and away from the busy road in the apartment laden Hyojadong 4-ga area. There aren't many places where dogs can run around freely, and off leash, and so this park has been a wonderful find for us and our black Jindo pup, Shadow (you can read more about him by clicking here).

***UPDATE as of a few weeks ago the police have been monitoring this park and banners have been up to warning people that any dogs off leash will be fined W50 000. Someone complained about all the dogs 'running wild' and ruined this wonderful place for everyone. People still take their dogs here but everyone is on edge worrying about the police. It's terribly sad and I hope we are able to do something about it soon.

The park is busiest on the weekends, with Sundays being it's most popular day. There is a small convenience store on the road below the park where you can load up with coffee and snacks and then just enjoy the afternoon while your pooch has a ball playing with his new friends. 

There are also public bathrooms where you can fill up water bottles for your dog.

Sometimes the smaller dog owners can get a little 'iffy' of bigger dogs, but there has always been at least one bigger dog for our pup to play with. Last weekend he developed a particular fondess for this golden lab (pictured below). 

Address

300-1 Hyoja 4-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do

Do you know of any other dog parks or dog friendly places here in Korea? Please drop me a comment below, I'm always looking for new places to take my pup!

Where to stay when skiing in Muju

Muju resort is the closest ski resort for us here in Jeollubok Province and so Farmboy and I have spent most of this and last ski season there. The last time we went, we camped (it was horribly cold but an adventure to say the least...click here to read more about camping in Muju). 

This time around we wanted to go with a group of friends and find a warm place to stay. There is accommodation at the resort itself, but you need to book before hand and it is quite expensive (we paid W150 000 a night for a tiny box of a room at one of the resorts) and so were looking for something a bit more budget friendly.

Muju town (where the bus terminal is) is a W25 000 taxi from the resort itself (you need to bear that in mind when making your way to the ski slopes). The resort area (ie where the actual slopes are) has a number of hotels around it which need to be booked in advance. Click here to read more about these hotels and to find information for booking. A short drive down the hill towards Muju Town and you'll find lots of ski rentals shops and Minbaks (a basic form of Korean guesthouse). If you drive to the bottom of the hill away from the slopes you'll come to a big intersection (there is a big CU convenience store on the corner). If you turn right and drive (or taxi) along that road you'll find a whole selection of much cheaper accommodation. There are also lots of restaurants (mostly Korean type food) and then eventually you'll come to Deogyusan National Park and the camping grounds. 

The day before our trip to Muju, we found this great webiste (click here) which lists a good selection of Pensions to stay at in Muju. The first one we called  (Dasup Pension) had space for the 6 of us and the owner spoke quite good english. It was as easy as that. It was clean and even had self catering facilities so you could take your own food and make your own meals.

The room we stayed in was Ondol style (so we slept on the floor) but there was enough bedding and blankets to ensure we at least were semi comfortable. It cost W130 000 for the night and so ended up costing us each W22 000. There are other style rooms for less people that include an actual bed. The owner was very friendly, had all the ski rental equipment needed and also offered lift passes. We rented our equipment from him (it was much cheaper than hiring at the resort) and he also offered to drop us off at the resort and fetch us again at the end of our ski session. The costs for rental were:

Skis & Poles W5 000

Jacket & Ski Pants W10 000

Here are some (terrible) snaps of the prices for this pension. You can call the owner, Mr Cheong Euk Shim on 063-322-3379 and find his website here: www.dasup.kr.

If you have any other recommendations for places to stay (or places you think people really should avoid!) please do let me know in the comments below.

Ubud, Bali Travel Guide

Farmboy and I headed to Bali for 12 days in July last year. We had a wonderful time, and it was one of our favourite holidays we have been on so far. I seem to say this after every holiday, probably because we are finally starting to actually learn from out mistakes, making each trip that much better. You may be thinking of heading there soon (or sometime in the future) so to help you plan your trip, I have put together a rough budget, as well as some tips from our stay. Please keep in mind that my husband and I may travel very differently to you, and have different likes and preferences for things. I prefer the more luxurious path, while Farmboy would stay in a hammock for the entire trip if it was up to him. So we plan accordingly, and of course, try to stick to the budget.

We didn't find Bali as cheap as some of the other countries we have visited (Vietnam, for example) but that is mainly due to the fact that Bali's whole economy is based on tourism. Bali is the largest tourist destination in the world, and is renowned for its highly developed arts, including traditional and modern dance, sculpture, painting, leather, metalworking, and music. They have been a tourist destination for a very long time, this has it's pros and cons as I will explain later. Bearing this in mind our trip budget was different to Vietnam and Malaysia. Another thing is that my mom was supposed to be joining us on this trip, and so come of our accommodation choices were very different to what we usually book. She had to cancel her trip at the last minute and as most of the accommodation was non refundable, we just decided to enjoy the slightly pricier places we had originally booked. 

We were in Bali for 12 days exploring mainly the Centre of Bali & the East Coast:

6 nights in Ubud (first 4 nights & last 2 nights)

5 nights on the Gili Islands

This post is focused on Ubud, and the second guide I will post soon will be of The Gili Islands.

UBUD - Central Bali

Ubud is the cultural capital of Bali, where you will find anything from yoga studios, to french cuisine, artisan jewellery to unique hand crafted furniture. Here is a list of the things we did during out first 4 and last 2 days in Bali.

Accommodation in Ubud

Upon arrival into Ubud, we were collected at midnight by the owner of our villa (Dewa, the most incredibly humble, open minded and knowledgeable man we have ever met) who is also a driver and tour guide. We didn't know anything about drivers or the fact that we might need one until we met him, and he didn't pressure us to book him for any tours at all. We spent the first 4 days in the home he has built for guests (click here to see more about booking this incredible place). Although the villa is on the same property as his family home, there is complete privacy and we only noticed the presence of people when we would find little offerings places around the bottom of the house. 

*Peaceful Villa just outside Ubud $89 a night (suitable for 4 people). Click here to book. 

If you would like to get in contact with Dewa for a tour or to book his villa directly, click here and scroll down to the button that says 'contact host'. Dewa also helped us book fast boats to get to the Gili Islands and was just so helpful. I can't recommend him enough! 

For our last 2 nights we decided to stay somewhere really special and spent two nights at Villa Awang Awang is the smallest of their villas, Villa Pererepan. It was incredible and one of the highlights of our stay. It was our most expensive accommodation, $150 a night but worth every cent. We had a private pool, breakfast was included and served to us on a private balcony over looking the forest canopy below. The bathroom was half outdoor and was the perfect place to relax after a busy day of sightseeing. Click here to find out more about Villa Awang Awang.

Offerings

The majority of the people in Bali follow Balinese Hinduism, which is a combination of existing local beliefs and Hindu influences from mainland Southeast Asia and South Asia. Balinese Hinduism has roots in Indian Hinduism and Buddhism, and adopted the animistic traditions of the indigenous people. This influence strengthened the belief that the gods and goddesses are present in all things. Every element of nature, therefore, possesses its own power, which reflects the power of the gods. A rock, tree, dagger, or woven cloth is a potential home for spirits whose energy can be directed for good or evil. Balinese Hinduism is deeply interwoven with art and ritual. As you drive along the narrow roads, you will see many parts of temples and trees covered in cloth. This is a marker to show that spirits reside within. 

Every morning, usually before most tourists have even been rustled from sleep, the people of Bali are out sweeping the streets of the previous days offerings. Once swept the streets are once again ready for the daily gifts or offerings laid out to appease the various Gods & Daemons Of Balinese Hinduism. 

Things to do in Ubud

Ubud has a very laid back atmosphere, even though there are a lot of tourists. It has become especially popular since the Eat, Pray Love was filmed there. Many people from allover the world come to practice yoga, and recharge their bodies, minds and souls. There are all kinds of restaurants and things to do in and around Ubud. We visited the Monkey Forest, did a cooking course, toured the surrounding craft villages, did a coffee plantation tour, visited temples, did a market tour and spent time wondering around the town. 

Ubud Monkey Forest

We spent an afternoon wondering around the Monkey Forest,which was a really fun experience. It was quite scary at times as the monkeys can get quite aggressive around their young. 

Ubud Cooking Course

Just like Vietnam, we did a cooking course and just loved it. Doing a cooking course really helps to get a real feel for the food of the country, and we learnt a lot about Balinese culture from our wonderful host. Click here for details on the cooking course we did. 

Ubud Industry Tour

All around Ubud there are pockets of villages that specialise in diffferent crafts. We visited a silver & gold factory, a Batik warehouse, bone crafters, and wood craftsmen. 

Market Tour

We were taken on a market tour during our cooking course with Paon Cooking School. We love doing market tours as often we have no idea what half of the herbs, spices and vegetables are and our guide explained how to eat the local fruit. This was one of the highlights of Ubud for us.

Temple Visits

We visited 4 temples and their surrounding areas around Ubud; Elephant Cave ( Goa Gajah), Pura Tirta Empul (holy waters) and Tegallalang Rice Terraces & Gunung Kawi.

Ubud Coffee Plantations Tour

Our villa host and tour guide, Dewa, took us on a tour of one of the local coffee plantations. We even got to try the infamous Luwak Coffee or Kopi Luwak. Kopi Luwak refers to the seeds of coffee berries once they have been eaten and defecated by the Asian palm civet. Sounds pretty terrible, and to be honest we weren't blown away by the taste. It tasted like regular coffee to us, but is known to be one of the most expensive coffees in the world. The tour also included a tasting of various teas and other coffees available to buy. 

Volcano Tour & Lunch in Rice Paddy Village

We also did a very short drive to see the view of Kintamani Volcano which is still very much active. We didn't do the tour around the base of the volcano, but the views were gorgeous from one of the rest stop. We then had lunch at one of the rice paddy villages which had gorgeous views too.

We really enjoyed our first few days in Udub, but by the 4th day we were ready to head away from the crowds and on to the beach. I will be posting a guide to the Gili Islands soon!

In the mean time, here is a video Farmboy put together of our trip, enjoy!

If you would like to get in contact with Dewa for a tour or to book his villa directly, click here and scroll down to the button that says 'contact host'. Dewa also helped us book fast boats to get to the Gili Islands and was just so helpful. I can't recommend him enough! 

Muju Ski Resort & Camping in the snow

Muju is the closest ski resort in our province (Jeollabukdo) and is a 2 hour drive from Buan. If you travel bus bus you need to get to Jeonju and from there take a bus to Muju. Then there are local buses and shuttles, or even taxi's which will take you the rest of the way to the resort where the slopes are.

We decided it would be a great idea to camp (trying to be as spend thrifty as possible) and while we all survived the cold, it was pretty darn freezing. We were no where near equipped to deal with the sub zero temperatures, and felt rather ashamed when we looked at our neighbours setups. When Koreans camp they camp properly, with no messing about. Luckily, our neighbours were such kind people and offered us tent pegs and a hammer to get our tent set up. We were also brought steaming hot citrus tea in the morning, they really must have felt sorry for us during the night. BUT it was an adventure and that's what we were after (dog included!).

There are about 7 camp sites, 6 of which you have to reserve online or by calling (click here for more information...the website is in Korean so you may need a co-worker/friend to help you). BUT the site we camped at was on a first come first served bases. Here is a map of the area highlighting the camp site & the resort (left hand side: 무주 리조트):

It cost us W13 000 to camp for the night. The camp site also has caravans (auto homes) to rent out and camp sites with electricity if you need it. The bathrooms were great, had showers and most importantly had heaters all over the place to keep you toasty when you have to leave your tent in the middle of the night.

Another thing to bear in mind is that the slopes are closed in between sessions for the snow ploughs to do their thing and get the slopes ready for the next session. Each session is between 3 & 4 hours long. Here are the session times, as of February 2015. Please confirm these times with the website by clicking here.

• Early Morning 06:30~08:30 (During the weekends and holidays only, except on Chinese new year’s day)
• Morning 08:30~12:30 
• Afternoon 12:30~16:30 
• Evening 18:30~22:00 
• Night 22:00~24:00 
• Midnight 24:00~02:00 

At the entrance to the slopes there are a few coffee shops and plenty of restaurants. There is also a JimJilBang (public bath house) for you to warm up and shower after your ski sessions. They only offer the baths and a small section for relaxing in, you CAN'T sleep here as they close at 10/11pm.

We did an evening ski session (18h30 - 22h00) which was amazing! Farmboy and I have skiied a few times all over Korea and we love the night sessions the most. It's cold, but there are fewer people.

Click here for more information on the ski session prices. If you have an NH or KB card you automatically get up to 50% off the prices...so for the 3 of us to ski one session, lift passes & equipment included it only cost W53 000 each. Ski jackets and pants are available for rent at about W10 000 a day each. The only things you can't rent are gloves & goggles so make sure to remember to pack those.

Here are some more photographs of the area around our camp site, including a photograph of me standing in front of the most amazing Korean camp set up. And yes, that is a chimney to the right of the roof top tent. It was really beautiful in the early morning, and we will definitely be going back for Summer.

Address:

Muju Resort: 185, Manseon-ro, Seolcheon-myeon, Muju-gun, Jeollabuk-do (Manseon-dong)
전라북도 무주군 설천면 만선로 185 (만선동)

The last snowfall

Last month we had so much snow here in Buan, South Korea that we were left wondering whether it would ever stop. The snow is beautiful, but driving in it is a nightmare. Freshly fallen snow is soft and fluffy, but the day after it's icy and treacherous. But we enjoyed the change from our mild winters in South Africa and had loads of fun playing with our pup in it (he must be part Husky as the snow is his most favourite thing, ever!).

Here are some photographs from the last heavy snow we had in December. I took a stroll up to one of the traditional temples behind my town (click here to see the styled shoot I did there in Summer last year with my very pretty South African friend, Roslyn). 

Suncheon Bay Ecological Park

Suncheon Bay is most famous for it's huge expanse of reeds which grow so tall that one can get lost walking through them. The reeds are incredibly beautiful to watch swaying in the breeze. Suncheon Bay is widely known for attracting a large number of rare birds  such as the hooded crane, white-naped crane, white stork, black-faced spoonbill, and the Eurasian Oystercatcher, as well as other birds designated as natural Korean treasures. 

We didn't explore much of actual Suncheon, but rather headed straight for the Eco Park. There is lots to do there, from wandering around and enjoying the views to grabbing a coffee to enjoy on your walk through the reeds.

This time of year (Autumn) is particularly beautiful at the Eco Park as all the trees are slowly loosing their leaves, dropping red and yellow leaves all around. The light is also spectacular

Directions

Suncheon bay is at the very bottom of Korea and is easy enough to get to – take any bus heading for Suncheon. Once you get to the main bus terminal, cross the road and head left. Once you get to the end of the street turn right.You need to take the 67 Bus (a 20 minute ride to Suncheon Bay). 

Autumn Colours in Korea, Seonununsa Park

Autumn is about to leave us here in Korea, making way for icy winds,  frozen fingers & toes and of course the snow. It all seems to be over very quickly and I feel like I didn't really get a proper chance to enjoy the colours and sights of one of the most popular seasons here in Korea.

I did manage to get to Seonunsan Park one afternoon to photographs the changing leaves. Aren't the colours beautiful?

Last year we headed up Naejangsan (just outside of Jeongeup) with what seemed like the whole of Korea. Naejangsan is one of the most popular places to see the changing leaves and so this year I made sure to avoid the crowds and find a place that was still beautiful, but one that I could photograph without having to strategically block out millions of bodies. Seoununsan is just outside of Gochang and relatively easy to get to. See below for directions.

There is also a temple there, but I was more interested in seeing the leaves. For the temple there is an admission fee to pay before entering (see information below).

Directions:

250, Seonunsa-ro, Asan-myeon, Gochang-gun, Jeollabuk-do 
전북 고창군 아산면

From Gochang Intercity Bus Terminal, take a direct bus or a local bus to Seonunsa Temple (선운사).
Direct Bus: runs 8 times a day / Local Bus: runs 24 times a day

From Gwangju U-Square Bus Terminal, take a direct bus to Seonunsa Temple.
(runs 4 times a day)

Admission fee to see the temple:

Adults (ages 19-64): 3,000 won / Group: 2,500 won

Youths (ages 13-18): 2,000 won / Group: 1,500 won

Children (ages 7-12): 1,000 won / Group: 800 won

Buan, South Korea

Farmboy and I live in a very small town here in Korea called Buan. It's not much, but it has become our home and we are happier here than we were when we lived in Korea's third largest city, Daejeon.

Winter is just about here, and before it got really cold I managed to get these photographs of the drive into town. Just to give you an idea of what 'rural' Korea looks like.

Monster Cupcake in Itaewon, Seoul

If you happen to be anywhere near Seoul tomorrow, why not pop into Monster cupcake to get yourself a spooky Halloween treat.

Their red velvet cupcakes are literally the best red-velvet I have ever had. It tops the ones I've eaten in South Africa, as well as any other I have tried here in Korea. It has just the right combination of sweet and tangy, and the actual cupcake is light and fluffy. It was devoured in seconds. Yum!

Directions

Finding this place was a little difficult, as it's on the other end of Itaewon (walking away from Itaewon central towards the McDonalds, you carry on past the Noksapyeong Subway station and turn right just after the pancake cafe. It's quite a walk from Itaewon (about 15 minutes).  

The easiest way to get there is to take the Seoul Metro Subway (brown line #6) to Noksapyeong station, and take Exit 2.  From that exit you will have to cross the street and walk for a few minutes and you'll find the cafe on your left. 

Monster Cupcake 몬스터컵케이크

Hours: 9am-11pm

02-790-1108

서울특별시 용산구 이태원동 305-7

The Hanji Paper Festival in Wonju

A few weekends ago we headed up to Gangwon Province in the north of Korea to see the Hanji Festival in Wonju. It was a rather far drive to make, but we were rewarded with a rather pleasant festival experience as there were very few people, unlike the rest of the festivals we have been to so far (Fall Leaves in Naejangsan and the Spring Flowers in Gwangyang). 

Hanji  literally means “the paper of Korea”. The main material is the fibrous skin of the mulberry. Hanji is not simply paper, as it is used in a variety of ways. Each different way has a different name according to its use.

"The manufacturing process of Korean paper is complicated, slow and laborious. The dry mulberry is cut after the frost has arrived and is peeled off after steaming. It is immersed in water for one day and, after being dried under sunlight, the bark is peeled off, steamed again inside an iron pot and immersed in caustic soda. The steamed bark is smashed inside a stone mortar after the water has been squeezed out. Then it is rinsed in water after being placed inside a wrapper. The washed mulberry is mixed with water and a natural adhesive. Next, the fibres are strained through a bamboo screen, which is shaken back and forth to create a crisscross pattern of fibres. The pulp is then dried by stacking it on a wooden panel and placed in the sun, completing the process." Korea Tourism

It was really interesting seeing how the paper is made, and seeing all the different ways it's used. A lot of the lanterns here in Korea are made with Hanji. The festival was over a 4 days, so even though it's over now you might want to visit next year (see info on how to get there at the end if his post).

This was also our first weekend away with our new puppy, Shadow (full post to come on him soon) and it was a rather interesting learning experience being around other people and lots of noise while carrying a new puppy. 

How to Get There:

151, Hanjigongwon-gil, Wonju-si, Gangwon-do
강원도 원주시 한지공원길 151 (무실동)

-From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an intercity bus bound for Wonju.
-From Wonju Intercity Bus Terminal, take a taxi to Hanji Theme Park.
OR
Take bus 2-1 at the bus stop located across from Wonju Intercity Bus Terminal.
Get off at Youth Center (청소년수련관). Walk 10min toward Hanji Theme Park.
 

Where to see the Fall Foliage in Korea this year.

Typically, mid-October into early November is the peak time to see the leaves turning here in Korea. Just as wonderful as the spring blossoms (click here) the Autumn/Fall foliage is breathtaking. For us South Africans, we just don't get sights like this back home. The trees turn of course, but it's just nothing like the sea of red and yellow that greets you here in Korea.

The four best mountains to see the Autumn colours are Naejangsan (내장산) just outside of the town of Jeongeup, Jirisan (지리산) which is close to Namwon, Seoraksan (석악산) in Gangwon Province and Gwanaksan (관악산) which is closer to Seoul. 

Last year we only made it to Naejangsan (pictured below) and this year I hope to make it to Jirisan. As with many outdoor activities here in Korea, be prepared for the crowds! We were stuck on a bus for 2 hours making our way to Naejangsan, due to the hoards of people and cars, and eventually jumped off the bus and decided to walk the 5km road from the base of the mountain to the actual main viewing. It was a logistical nightmare. But, as long as you know it's going to be chaos and you are prepared for that, you will be rewarded with stunning sights.

Seoul Iris Park

At the end of June a friend and I went off in search of the Iris Park in Seoul. I had read that the Irises usually cover the park in an array of beautiful coloured blooms from May to June. But, we had arrived too late and were only able to spot one or two flowers hidden among the rest of the greenery of Changpawon Park.

There are 130 species of Irises in the park, as well as a Medicinal Botanical Garden. The park also has a wetland in the middle of it with a wooden deck from which you can see lotuses and other aquatic plants. The par itself isn't very big, but there are lots of shady grass areas and benches to enjoy a picnic lunch on. It was well worth the visit, and I am making sure to get there next year to see all the flowers in full bloom.

The park is open from 07h00 - 20h00.

How to get there

How to get there : Dobongsan Station (Subway Line 1, 7) Exit 2.

Walk out of Exit 2 and cross the main road, walking away from the subway line. The park will be in front of you.

Source

Jeju Island over the Chuseok holiday

This past weekend was a wonderful 5 days for those of us teaching English here in Korea. It was the Korean Thanksgiving, Chuseok, a time when Korean families get together to celebrate. Many Korean people visit their ancestral home towns, escaping the big cities to spend time with grandparents and other family members.

Farmboy and I headed off to Jeju Island with two friends for 4 days of camping and exploring. It was our second time on the island (we visited Jeju back in 2010 when my mom came to visit us here when we were living in Korea the first time) and it was such fun to revisit the places we explored together, and take photographs in the same spots. Back in 2010 Farmboy and I had only recently started dating so it was a special time to look back on our first holiday memories together.

These photographs were taken by Storm, my stylist and partner in crime to the styled shoots I have been doing lately. I will have my photographs up in the next few weeks once I get to editing them. Storm has a great eye, you should pop onto Instagram (@StormRossSa) and follow along in her journey here in Korea.

Malaysia Travel Guide and The Perhentian Islands

Farmboy and I visited Malaysia in August last year (2013).  You may be thinking of heading there soon (or sometime in the future) so to help you plan your trip, I have put together a travel guide for the places we visited, as well as some tips from our stay. Please keep in mind that my husband and I may travel very differently to you, and have different likes and preferences for things. I prefer the more luxurious path, while Farmboy would stay in a hammock for the entire trip if he could. So we plan accordingly, and of course, try to stick to the budget. 

Malaysia is predominantly a muslim country, this is something to keep in mind for a few reasons. Alcohol is very expensive there, and in some places forbidden. Also, try and research which national or religious holidays are happening during your trip. This may seem obvious to some people, but it was something I had never thought to research. We were there over Ramadan and were staying on the Perhentian Islands at the time. The island we were on basically shut down for the week and we could only find a handful of places to eat at. Bear that in mind when making your final bookings.

We spent 8 days in Malaysia. After landing in Kuala Lumpur, we headed straight to the Perhentian Islands by overnight bus and spent the rest of our trip there.

Perhentian Kecil

The Perhentian Islands are made up of 2 islands, Kecil & Besar. Besar is the more family friendly island, and Kecil is the livelier island made up of backpackers and part goers. We spent 5 nights on Perhentian Kecil in a range of accommodations. We weren't able to find any places to book online and so had to join the hoards of people on the first boat in who had to walk up and down the beach in search of a place to stay. We were envious of the French couple who whipped out their booking confirmation on the boat, and then proceeded to amble their way to the only fancy looking resort on the island. We were insanely jealous, as the rest us on the boat kept eyeing up the competition to see who would make it off the boat first in search of a room for the night. This is why we now try to book at least 60% of our accommodation before hand. From Kuala Lumpur you can take an overnight bus to Kuala Besut which is where you then catch a small boat to the Perhentian Islands. Once on the islands there are plenty of taxi boats that you can take to get from one island to the other for about US$15 one way if needed.

We caught an 8 hour overnight bus from Putra Station to Kuala Besut (-+US$20 pp) which stopped at the port at about 4am. We found out later that AirAsia has numerous cheap flights from KL - Khota Bharu, from there it's an hour taxi ride to the port at Khuala Besut.

From the port it's a 45 minute boat ride in a small, fiberglass boat (watch your belongings...everything gets wet!). The speedboats take you just short of the shore, from where you take a mini 'taxi' boat to the beach. It's completely unnecessary, but unavoidable as the main boat won't stop any closer to the shore. It's a cheap transfer (about US$2 a person) but still very annoying. From there it's a short wade ashore through knee-deep water with your bags (keep that in mind when packing!). When leaving the islands, there is a jetty from which you leave from, which makes things easier for the return trip.

Kecil Island is small enough to explore in one day. There are 2 main beaches, Long Beach (usually where you are dropped off by the boat) which houses all the backpackers and night life. And then Coral Bay. Coral Bay is the place to go for spectacular sunsets, slightly cheaper prices, and small private beach coves. The snorkeling is better at Coral Bay, but the swimming is better on Long Beach. It's only a 15 minute walk through the Jungle from one side to the other.

I highly recommend staying at Ewans Place (click here for his facebook page). His was the only restaurant open during Ramadan and he was so helpful in organising us a last minute room, after a few pleads and batting of eyelids. The rooms are simple, but clean and more than adequate. Nothing fancy, but they are situated in the middle of the island, away from all the noise of Long Beach. 

While both Kecil & Besut Island share the same diving sites, the dive operations on Perhentian Kecil are slightly cheaper than those on Perhentian Besar. Daytime dives can be as cheap as US$25 each depending on the company and distance to the site; night dives cost around US$40. We don't have our diving licenses, but packed our own snorkels and goggles from Korea so we have the freedom to snorkel wherever we want to.

Khota Bharu

After our stay on the Perhentians we headed back to the mainland port of Kuala Besut and caught a taxi to the airport at Khota Bharu. We had booked flights using the AirAsia app on our iPhones (having our iPhones with us has been a life saver on many a trip, their GPS location mapping and the apps for booking hotels and flights with the click of a few buttons have made traveling so easy). There were 4 of us to share a taxi (about $20 for the hour long trip but you can haggle the price). Once we got to Khota Bharu we had some time to kill and headed to the main market in the town square. It was such an interesting experience, well worth a stop at.

A FEW TIPS

• If you're short on time, look to see if you can find cheap local flights on sites like AirAsia (this has saved us so much time and we have been able to book flights for reasonable prices). Download the AirAisa app, it's super easy to use. For Malaysia we booked our internal flights for about $120 last minute for two people from Khota Bharu to Kuala Lumpur
• When booking flights be sure of what is included in your flight booking, especially with Air Asia. We booked flights for Malaysia for really cheap, and then only after booking did we realise that we could only take carry on luggage (which was restricted to 7kg's a person, and they were super strict at the airport, weighing all our bags including my big camera bag).
• Take your smart phone with you. We didn't have data, although we were told that sim cards were readily available and pretty cheap. But we were able to jump on some free wifi in cafes. The GPS function on our iPhones was an absolute life saver, as it functions in helping you navigate, even when not connected to wifi.
• Jot down your expenses, this helps you stay on track. We took only cash for our 2 week trip and writing what we spent where helped us to stay within the budget 
• Download the Orbitz and Hotels.com apps on your phone. By booking through the app you usually can get good discounts discount and can book last minute. When we were there in 2013 there were no places on Perhentian that you could book online, but this might have changed by now.
• Visa Requirements: For South African/UK/US/Canada/New Zealand/Australia passport holders, no visa is required for 90 days. You need to have a passport that is valid for 6 months after your departure date, so if you arrive on the 1st of the month and leave on the 30th of the month, the passport should be valid for 6 months from the 30th of the month.  If you passport is not fully valid your airline may not allow you to board and the immigration authority will not permit you to land in Malaysia.
• Pack a sense of humour. You will get lost. You will fight with your husband/boy friend/friends. You will get sick at least once and you will have an amazing holiday all the same. 

Is there anything I've left of the list? Any places you'd recommend in Malaysia? Or any tips you think should be included here, pop me a comment below. 

If you have any questions about our trip feel free to leave me a comment below and I'll get back to you soon.

Happy travels!

[This is the second travel guide I have done, click here to see my guide to Vietnam]

The best brunch in Seoul... SuJi's Deli in Itaweon

A quick Google search for the ultimate places to brunch in Seoul will show you a decent number of places to get your fill of a good old fashioned greasy fry up. But, as Seoul is a long way away from our little town, we wanted to make sure we weren't going to be disappointed as we often are with breakfasts here in Korea.

Suji's seemed to be ranked as one of the original brunch spots. So, armed with a bunch of very hungry South Africans we headed off to stuff our faces.

We were delighted with what awaited us...

Prices were what we had expected for a restaurant that caters for the Western market, pricey but totally justifiable. I mean, look at the size of the pancake platter.

Their menu is extensive and has something for everyone.

Everything was delicious (except the tea...who premixes frothed milk into English Breakfast?!) but the orange juice and burger made up for that.

It gets full very quickly, so make sure to get there early if you are a large group. Or just to be safe, call ahead (Tel 02.797.3698) and make a reservation.

Directions

서울특별시 용산구 이태원로 134, 2층 & 3층
2nd & 3rd Fl, 134 Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Take Subway line 6 and get out at Itaewon, Exit 4.

It's all the way on the end of the main Itaewon drag, close to the McDonald's and right next door to SkinFood which is what you'll see when you reach the end of the road walking towards Noksapyung Station.

Tel 02.797.3698

Website: Sujis Diner

Opening Hours

Deli Cafe: 8am - 9pm 7 days a week

3rd Floor Restaurant: 11am - 10pm weekdays & 9am - 10pm weekends/holidays